(For photo story scroll to the end)We did not know what to expect this time in Cartagena, our last visit left a bitter taste in our mouth. One reason we came back was for some unfinished business with our buddy boat Wind Shear who most of you know was confiscated in Cartagena last April. I will bring the whole story eventually to the light but not until all is behind us.
Paradise was a mess and needed a bath and so we took a slip in the Manzanillo Marina for one week we thought. The one week turned into a month keeping us busy with boat chores and doctor visits. Medical stuff here is very good and very affordable we took full advantage and did the yearly check up. We both have a clean bill of health.
Imagine the costs: Mammogram 28 bucks, Ultrasound 8 bucks,
PSA blood test 28, Cholesterol blood test 5.60.
(What is wrong with our prices in the US?)
But the big expense we had was definitely the marina bill. We were shocked to find out that the service fees were higher than the slip fee. Our bill for one month came to 1000 bucks, minding you we had to climb on another boat to get into ours, water coming out of the hose smelled like sewage, electricity never showed higher than 90 volt, due to that most appliances didn’t work. The showers had only cold water and the doors as soon as they got wet were see-through and the TV/computer room had no AC as advertised. When we were told that the slip fee was only 89 dollars a week we took it. But this is what the bill came to:
Slip fee is 20 000 per foot a months, for us: US$ 10.32
10 000 per day for live aboard US$ 5.16
10 000 per day for electricity US$ 5.16
5 000 per day for water US$ 2.58
You do the math and will be shocked to see that the extra fees are more expensive than the slip fee, outrageous.
For this price cruisers expect floating docks, a restaurant on the premises, good WiFi, a pool and a safe neighborhood, which this has none of the above except for a very slow most of the time not working WiFi because the son of the owner running the marina unplugs the WiFi so he can watch TV on his computer. Not just that he ignores the needs of his clients and does not come back to you for any inquiries or complaints, most cruisers at the yard were very disappointed and unhappy.
In addition one of the other boats in the yard, the owner is a contractor and being aware of how things can go in Latin Countries, had a contract that if the ordered work is not done in the promised 2 months that each week a deduction will be taken off the bill. Maurice the owner agreed and signed the contract. This boat owner had nothing but problems and Maurice did not accommodate him at all. The whole promised 2 months boat work took 8 months and when it came to pay the bill, the boat was in the sling ready to be launched. The secretary approached the boat owner and told him that if he wanted the boat launched he had to pay the full price and that the contract means nothing to the owner of the yard. If he wanted to discuss this with the owner he could wait because the owner was on vacation for two weeks and he could remain in the yard for that long for the usual yard fee. Maurice did not even consider that our friends not just had the boat in the yard for 8 months but that they HAD to rent the horrible tiny apartment for 8 months. The yard fee was the same price as the apartment fee, so this was a very, very expensive deal for our friends. So beware if you choose to go to the Manznillo Yard. From our own experience we would never go back again.
In the two months we were gone, drastic changes have been implemented with the check-in procedure. Last November when we arrived in Santa Marta we learned that the Port Captain there never had to deal with cruisers and gave us a rather hard time. Back in November Santa Marta was still pretty unknown for cruisers but with the new marina, it opened the doors for us to make a shorter passage to Cartagena which was a big relief along this treacherous coast line. Any of the boats arriving that had Cartagena as destination on the Zarpe the port captain would call into the office, they had to see him with an attorney present and he fined them all. The word spread fast not to stop in Santa Marta if the Zarpe did not state Santa Marta on it. Unfortunately right after we arrived in Cartagena they had a change of watch and the Santa Marta Port Captain was sent back to Cartagena were he originated from. Stories have it that everybody was relieved when he was sent to Santa Marta and that the moral is down with him back. There were no imminent signs then that he was back but we sure can tell now.
FEES FOR CHECKING INTO CARTAGENA
Exchange rate 10/10/11 USD 1.00 = Col. Peso 1,935.00
Agency fee in/out 150.000
Immigration 20.000
Cruising Permit 166.000
Temporary Importation 100.000
436.000 USD 225.00
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After two months you have to renew the Cruising Permit for an additional 200.000 Pesos/ 104 $ which brings the total bill now to roughly 330 US dollars. By the way even a boat that is on the hard for storage must pay the cruising permit.
This permit is good for 6 months, considering that after 4 months you have to leave the country as the 6 months tourist visa is over. You can only stay in Colombia for 6 months per calendar year. If you stay for 2 months, head to Panama for two and return you would think the 100.000 you had paid for the one year temporary importation would still be valid, nope that one expires when you check out.
Also after two months you have to renew your visa and pay 75.000 per person each month so if you stay 6 months you have to pay this amount 4 times. For the two of us that is another 600.000 pesos roughly 300 dollars.
One week after our agent started our paper work she called to tell us that a customs inspector will come to the boat. He never made it but he did want the number of the hull and engine. Then it took a full month for our paper work to finally be completed while I had to go to customs with the agent to sign the paper. Another new thing required to do. Why do we even need an agent if they need us there to sign the paper? My agent told me that she is really upset as the new/old port captain is also ordering the following:
NEW ADDITONS BY THE PORT CAPTAIN
Customs inspection 60.000
Health Inspection 60.000
Food and Animal control 60.000
Veterinary visit on yacht fee unknown
Plus 30.000 for boat rental that will bring them out to your boat as they refuse to take a dinghy (they say it’s too dangerous). I doubt they all show up at the same time so you can pretty much triple or quadruple the boat fee.
Also be careful which agent you use:
Be aware that David and Manfred are corrupt agents.
Manfred never filed for cruising permits as he thought they were frivolous charges, not until we were boarded and harassed by the Armada in Cholon did Manfred realize that it is an essential permit cruisers need. In the mean time he was charging the 166.000 pesos to his new clients but the money conveniently went into his own pockets. Nobody ever checked paper work on boats before, not until the new port captain came back. Several of Manfred’s clients had to pay a fine of each 1.000.000 (USD 516.00) because Manfred did not get a cruising permit for them. Another boat he screwed up with paper work resulting in confiscation of the boat and still is and all was Manfred’s fault. Manfred is easy to be bribed and is known by cruisers who don’t want to leave when their time is up. Manfred checks boats and cruisers illegally out then into the country again while they never leave. These people are oblivious that if caught that they could lose their boat or be deported or both. If deported you cannot come back for 10 years.
David does anything for you if it involves money, you can bribe him as much as you can bribe Manfred. Robin Minks of Wind Shear bribed him to leave without his wife; the boat is in her name. To cover his own butt, David called for Robin’s arrest for fraudulent paper work, also called authorities. Result: boat was confiscated, Rob ended in jail (stay tuned for the whole story). Later he and Manfred helped Rob to get a Zarpe to get Wind Shear with help of Coast Guard out of the country. Fortunately his illegal attempt to flee didn’t succeed.
David lied many times to my face so I definitely don’t trust him. David also was the agent of the two boats who were caught running drugs and were confiscated.
David’s Uncle Romero, is no longer an agent in Santa Marta, he was caught by Port Captain handling paper work with his own fabricated stamp, collecting the money into his pocket.
Makes you feel really secure to know you are at these agents mercy.
Unfortunately we are not allowed to check in by ourselves and this is the only country we have ever been to where we needed an agent, not to mention the most expensive place to check in.
By the way we use Paola
cartagenacaribbean@hotmail.com
321 583 1456
315 756 2818
or call Little Wing VHF 68
The last thing I ever want to write down is the following. The authorities have started to board cruising boats in Cartagena. The first one announced it the following morning on the local net. They were approached by the authorities asking to come aboard for a routine inspection, instead of the routine they came aboard with a drug dog and searched the boat for over an hour. They pulled pretty much the whole boat apart and the more time past the more they got frustrated because they could not find anything.
One day after their boarding another cruising boat faced the same. This time they tried to bring a wet drug dog aboard, owner did not allow it, so they brought 2 dry dogs in. The owner just had eye surgery the previous day and was on bed rest, told the agents and asked if they could come back later. 3 ½ hours later the agents wanted them to sign paperwork that stated they were professional about it. The owner refused to sign as they were harassed and they left the boat a mess with head liners torn down and other damage. A week later a boat announced on the radio that the authorities were back and checking every boat for paper work.
You know hearing all this, takes the fun out of visiting a beautiful place like Cartagena and I don’t think we will ever return again. We have first hand seen how authorities work here and how corrupt it can be.
On a better note, did you know that Colombia celebrates Valentines Day on September 17th Sept and is called Amor de Amistad. Neither did we and were just puzzled to find the mal packed with people and we enjoyed a great concert with a local artist. With the Day of Love really nasty weather rolled in, we have never seen so much rain and had winds up to 35 knots, just good we were in the marina and were not affected by it, but the radio was busy as many boats broke loose in the anchorage of Cartagena.
We eventually escaped the marina and headed back to Cholon to finally spend some time with Carmelita and Roberto.
It was great to sit in the calm and safe anchorage of Cholon again waking up to the different bird sounds including the special one from the “Whatthefuckbirds”, they still keep us in stitches. October and November definitely is the worst of the rainy season in Colombia and Panama and this year is no exception we did get a LOT of rain to the point that the drive way up to Roberto’s house is slipperier than snot on a glass door knob and very carefully we climb that 40% climb and going down is even more challenging.
On October 13th we celebrated Sid’s birthday at “Crow’s Nest” with a tasty Fondue Bourguignon and luckily the weather cooperated so we were able to walk instead of slide down hill.
A few days after that Roberto’s kid’s Lori and Paul flew in from LA, including his brother Tom from Medellin, it was a happy family reunion and we were honored to be included. Tommy is a retired Costa Mesa officer and both of Roberto’s kids are still active police officers. Sid had a lot of fun talking to Lori as she works with some of his ex partners. We had a blast and not one moment to relax. Roberto was so impressed with the Fondue dinner on Sid’s BD he asked me if I could cook it for his family. It was a hit, everybody enjoyed it and we ate and ate for at least two hours. The eating and drinking didn’t stop there it went on for days. Their last evening in Cholon Roberto organized a potluck on Manatee. Food as always was wonderful and when Carmen changed the music to some hot Latin stuff Tommy took over and taught us all to dance Salsa, man can he wiggle his butt. Even Sid ended up wiggling his little behind like a Latino. It really was a fun evening.
Next day we all went to Cartagena, Roberto had rented a cute house in Getsemani with 4 bedrooms and invited us to stay with them. Getsemani is one of the most charming neighborhoods in Cartagena. The nightlife is definitely happening here especially with all the hookers and numerous bars, most famous Club Habana. If you don’t remember the Getsemani name just tell the taxi driver you want to go to Club Habana.
Lori, Tommy and Paul we sure had a wonderful time thanks again for all, especially to Lori for bringing us our mail and all kind of goodies.
We had another fun week in Cholon but do to our visa running out it was time to say goodbye. The weather was still iffy as a Low pressure system just above Panama was threatening to turn into a tropical depression. Until that one was gone we were stuck in beautiful Cholon, sounds just horrible does it LOL. We will miss Roberto and Carmen terribly, they are both such wonderful friends and who knows if the “check in” drama straightens out we may return.
The weather was still unsettled and the winds came out of the West the direction we have to sail into. I guess we had a lucky break our weather advisor Chris told us go that day or the following after that there would be no window for at least two weeks. Needless to say we pulled anchor the very next morning. We were not even 20 minutes out of the Cholon Bay when I noticed steam coming out of the companion way. We shut the engine off immediately and Dr. Sid went to work to find out what the problem was. We were between Isla Grande, and Isla Peroquito with not a breath of wind anywhere just a light current was pushing us slowly towards the reef in front of the big island of the Rosarios. I wasn’t worried about it as I know Sid can fix pretty much anything and the current was very week. The thermostat gasket was broken and Sid even found some extra gaskets and within 30 minutes we headed out between the two islands towards Panama. Amazingly the wind filled in at the same time, we hoisted sail and motor sailed pretty much the entire trip to Panama, a 196 Mile trip. The sea was calm with gentle 2 foot swells on the beam.
30 miles out a gray heron joined us. I noticed him first on top of the solar panels. But then when he saw me he quickly jumped down on top of the dinghy tube and stayed there for almost the entire trip. 30 miles of the Panamanian shore he decided he could fly the rest. It was pretty cool at times he was just about 1 foot away from us and best of all he was a polite visitor and only left us a little surprise in the dinghy. Some Martins tried to hitch a ride as well but not sure what the heron told them, they took off.
It was a very calm trip and 33 three hours later we dropped the hook in Banadup. Early the next morning all our Kuna friends one by one came by to say hi, including fishermen selling us lobster and conch and to top the dinner we went to our secret beach and collected steamer clams, now top this dinner.
We spent two nights, enjoyed the quite and the occasional rain before we headed to Chichime.
What a surprise to find a wrecked sailboat on the reef. It landed high on top of the reef of Gaby Dup and we found out that this was the new owner’s maiden voyage and Chichime was going to be their first anchor drop. Why they entered this reef at two am in the morning is beyond us, but the result is obvious. Amazingly the boat was totally stripped in just the 2 weeks it’s been on the reef, the mast was even gone.
A message came through to us via SSB that Manatee had to leave Colombia and was going to be on the way to Panama soon. The Colombian authorities have gone after Manfred (one of the check in agents) and checked out all the boats he is the agent for and found Manatees paperwork screwed up and told Roberto he had to leave. So stay away from Manfred when checking into Cartagena (same for David).
We decided to head for Puerto Lindo the next day. The trip was great and it seemed we were chasing rainbows the whole entire way I have never seen so many as one thunder cloud after another dissolved in front of us, we never made it to any and all they left for us were beautiful rainbows. We arrived just on time to join all our friends in Puerto Lindo for Pizza dinner and had fun the following day for the weekly Sunday Ping-Pong.
Two days later we moved into a cute little house on the beach with ramp for our dinghy. Paradise is resting on a mooring that comes with the house. We will be CLODs (Cruisers Living On Dirt) for a while, while doing some upgrades to Paradise. The project list is huge and it will make it so much easier not to live on the boat while especially varnishing the inside.
The second night in the house at 4 am the phone rang. Our boat neighbor had called one of our friends and said that Paradise was on the loose and rubbing against his boat and if we don’t show up immediately he’ll cut her loose. Nice guy. Adrenalin rush was on, got dressed and ran down the path to the dinghy. A good storm was blowing right into the bay. The dinghy was filled with water had to be bailed out first before we could drag it down the ramp and into the water. The waves were breaking over the reef and the broken pier where the cut is for us to exit into the anchorage, this was not going to be fun and it wasn’t. There was such a current from the waves the engine could not get us out of there in waste deep water we waded her across the turbulent water. When we tried to get the dinghy through the narrow cut between the reef and broken pier we had 6 foot waves break right over us, over and over again. We by now were in chest deep water and jumping into the wild dinghy was a challenge. The few minutes seemed like hours before we managed to get to Paradise but after a few scratches and bruises and stepping between coral heads and rocks we managed to head out into the rough bay and over to where Paradise was in absolute calm water (the mooring field is protected behind a reef). We found her sideways to the wind but still on the mooring, the mooring had dragged. After taking the sunshade down, we lowered the anchor into the dinghy set the anchor and pulled Paradise off the mooring and anchored further out away from all the moored boats. Luckily daylight was just coming up so it was easier to see where to anchor. Paradise then was sitting in 6 foot rollers almost all day long before the wind slowed down enough for us to attempt to re-anchor in a calmer environment. We anchored in the same spot as the mooring was with a stern anchor out and also stern tied to the mooring.
No damage was done to either boat and the friendly neighbor who threatened to cut Paradise loose admitted that the boats never met, but he blamed us for breaking his mooring chain. Sid went over to check it out and found his mooring 3/8 chain so rusted out he actually could pull the chain apart with his bare hands and the guy lucky that we did break his mooring it was poorly maintained would have gone very soon. Sid lent him our anchor until our neighbor could fix it. Our mooring was re-set about a week later when the weather had calmed down and the water was clear enough to dive on the mooring.
Manatee showed up just three days after we did and it was a happy reunion. When we said goodbye in Cholon, Roberto and Sid both had tears in their eyes so we teased him enough that he really must have missed us to follow us within three days.
I took Carmen, Johnny and Patricio on sightseeing tours. The boys had never been outside of Colombia I just had to give them a tour. First we went shopping in Colon at the Quatro Alto Mall. At Novi we saw sunglasses UV protected for 3.99 and knowing neither one own a pair and neither one had any money in their pocket, I told them to choose a pair. Their eyes lit up like a Christmas tree and I tell you they sleep now with their sunglasses on. While at El Costo I handed each one a 20 dollar bill and told them to buy presents for their family. The El Costo store is awesome, all is very low priced you wouldn't believe how much these two could buy for the kids. In the next store I told them to buy a T-shirt for themselves, they both chose the same and when I saw the price of 2.99, ohgosh no way that can be an told them "otro" they misunderstood and put T-shirt back on the rack, I told them "no compro otro". With two T-shirts each and new shorts they were beaming. Also knowing that Patricio's daughter’s 15th BD coming up, which is a big deal in Latin countries, I bought a few presents for her from Dad and wrapped it all up in beautiful present paper and ribbons from him to his daughter’s special BD. The following day we drove to Panama, they can't possibly be in Panama without seeing the Panama Canal. First stop was the famous Gamboa Hotel, wow were they impressed, more so when they saw the big ships going through the canal and later on to stand in front of the tall high-rise buildings in Panama. But I think the highlight was when I drove them across the bridge of the Americas and they stepped foot on the North American Continent. We had a really good time.
In the 8 days Manatee was in town we had several potlucks and happy hours on Manatee or dinners at the house or Pizza night out.
Roberto managed to get three backpackers and their motorcycles on Manatee and made his way back to Cartagena. Weather looked good and what he found 80 miles out was not showing on any weather chart. He said he had 16 foot sea. Boat was tossed around like a toy. They all feared for their lives, Roberto said he was even praying. Autopilot went out, luckily only 7 miles out of Cartagena so no harm done there. Roberto said he is done with boating and that Manatee is for sale.
We for sure miss living aboard but we do enjoy being in the house, we can take hot showers at any time, do laundry at any time. But I tell you I run my butt off in the kitchen it's not like in my galley where I barely move my feet as everything is within reach, this kitchen is work LOL.
We moved most of our stuff into the house and are amazed that we filled up every cabinet and drawer to the rim, even under the bed, couch and on top of all the closets, there is no more room left for anything else.
The house is really cute and cozy. We have a big bath, bedroom, living room and big kitchen/dining room and a laundry room with dryer, what a treat. In the back of the house by the patio with BBQ is a small pond surrounded by bamboo and other lush tropical trees. The front of the house is covered with green grass, coconut trees, frangipani trees, lime tree, noni tree and all kinds of colored bushes with view over the water. The three bird feeders I put out attract the most colorful hummingbirds. When the sun goes down the frogs serenade us all evening and way into the night. Howler monkeys announce day break and occasionally we spot a wild sloth in the trees.
Thanksgiving approached and I had the honor of organizing a Turkey Potluck at Binnie’s. We had 27 people, two turkeys a ham and everybody brought the most scrumptious dishes. Everybody was full and we had tons of leftovers especially desert.
It is still rainy season until at least the middle of December and it does rain every day at least once. Whenever the water clears up enough and Sid wants to dive on the mooring to add a swivel that we can finally get Paradise back on the mooring it starts raining again. We have such downpours that within minutes the bay turns into a brown mud hole.
The wild life here is surely different and the two times I did Yoga with the girls at Binnie’s each time I found something interesting hanging in the net in the ceiling. First time I saw a dead humming bird sticking through the net, poor birdie and a beautiful green Praying Mantis. The second time laying on my back yogaing I opened my eyes and above in same spot was a looooooooooong green vine snake, wow what a beautiful animal. I could almost not concentrate on Yoga anymore but not because I was afraid of the snake, far from it this snake was just so beautiful.
Sid saw a little rabbit in the yard told me about it and it must be someone’s pet as it was pretty tame. Doesn’t the rabbit know this is Christmas time and not Easter?!
Three days later it was in the garden again. It let me pick it up and poor thing was just skin and bones. I fed it with a fat carrot and some apple; it attacked it like it had never seen a carrot before and probably hasn’t. It was still there the next morning and later on that day. Our neighbors got my attention and told me that the teenage girl next door was crying she lost her rabbit. She was happy to get her rabbit back but I told her to feed it better and gave her the left over apple and carrot. A couple of days later I brought her some rabbit food and invited her to bring the rabbit over to feed on the grass. She was so happy. Three days later she told me the rabbit had died; poor thing.
Oh and Dooger the sloth is my buddy, he’s the cutest thing and I get to pet sit him any time.
Christmas was approaching fast, my two Christmas trees were up and roof around the house was surrounded by blinking white ice cycles. And the smell of Christmas cookies baking in the oven filled the air and drove Sid nuts.
It was a busy couple of weeks. I forgot how busy Christmas season can be. Thinking back on the last Christmas when we were stuck in Bahia Honda, in the northern Coast of Colombia in 25 knots of wind and not being able to celebrate, this year is making up for it. With ice-cycle lights around the house, a Christmas trees by the front door, two inside the house, making presents and a whole week of baking cookies for friends and neighbors, the Christmas spirit had entered our house.
Happy New Year, I didn't think house life could be so busy, how did we ever fit sailing into our busy schedule LOL. Sid was busy between fixing this and that in either our little house, or helping Binnie and when weather permitting going out to the boat and fixing this and that out there. I was busy catching up on computer stuff, keeping up with the house which is a lot more to clean than Paradise, assisting Binnie and going shopping with her or with Cindy. Shopping here is definitely a whole day's activity. It takes a little over an hour to drive to Colon and 2 hours into Panama City. In either place the traffic is always a chaos and Sid and I were trying to figure out how much driving/standing in traffic to shopping we do and we figured about 1 hour of shopping to 4 hour driving or more. There is no such thing as a quick shopping trip. Shopping here is so good that it is worth all the driving.
Before all the Christmas dash started Jennifer, friend of Binnie, organized a tour of the Expansion of the Panama Canal (Third Set of Locks Project) which should be in operation in 2014.
We had to drive across the bridge of the Americas and meet everybody on the other side of the canal. From there a tour bus took us to a sight above the Miraflores Locks with an incredible view over the new excavation for the new locks. The view was spectacular over the new ditch they were digging.
This project will double the capacity of the Canal and will allow the mega tankers to cross. To do so a new lane of traffic along the Canal is being created by constructing a new set of locks. On each side, Pacific and Atlantic, two lock complexes are being added, each with three chambers, which include three water-saving basins. Plus the excavation of new access channels to the new locks, the widening of existing navigation channels, deepening of the navigation channel and the elevation of Gatun Lake's.
Outside Panama the expansion will create demand along the US Eastern Seaboard for ports able to handle post-Panamax ships. As of January 2012 ports of Miami to New York are considering renovations including dredging, blasting and bridge-raising, only Norfolk, Virginia is completely ready for the larger ships.
They also are going to build a new bridge across the canal in Colon.
It was very impressive and I hope to be here when the new locks open.
Before we went to the second event of the day we visited the local fish market and had lunch. The market is very impressive, clean and wow what an array of fish. I don't think I have ever seen bigger shrimp.
Lunch was a disaster, the chef never showed up and we waited for over an hour until the food finally arrived and it was horrible. I think the United States is the only county that will not charge for horrible food, here you don't have a choice.
A short drive later we arrived another construction sight the new Biodeversaty Museum of Panama City in Amador. A very funky looking project.
Jennifer is a volunteer and had her first speech to see if she is going to get the certificate to do tours. She passed with flying colors and we were amazed what this museum is going to offer, I hope I will be here for the opening in January 2013.
I did not know that the Isthmus was formed some three million years ago during the Pilocene epoch. The wide body of water between the continents was a strong flowing current that connected the water through the earth. This major geological event separated the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and interrupted the current. Two Plates of the Earth's Crust beneath the surface were slowly colliding, forcing the Pacific Plate to slide under the Caribbean Plate. The pressure and heat caused by this collision led to the formation of underwater volcanoes, Some grew large enough to form islands about 15 million years ago. Meanwhile, movement of the two tectonic plates was also pushing up the sea floor, eventually forcing some areas above sea level.Then over time massive amounts of sand, soil and mud from North and South America filled the gaps between the newly formed islands. Over millions of year sediments deposits added to the islands until all gaps very completely filled. By about 3 million the isthmus of Panama was formed between North and South America.
Scientists believe that this was the biggest event in the last 60 million years. Even though only a small sliver of land was created it had an enormous impact on Earth's climate and its environment. By shutting down the flow of water between the two oceans, the land bridge re-routed ocean currents in both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Atlantic currents were forced northward, and eventually settled into a new current pattern. This is how the Gulf Stream was created. With warm Caribbean waters flowing toward the northeast Atlantic, the climate of NW Europe grew warmer. The Atlantic, no longer mingling with the Pacific, grew saltier. Each of these changes helped establish the global ocean circulation pattern in place today. The Isthmus of Panama directly and indirectly influenced ocean and atmospheric circulation patterns around the world.
It is believed that the creation of this land mass and the warm wet weather over northern Europe resulted in the formation of a large Arctic ice cap and contributed to the ice age.
The formation of the Isthmus of Panama also played a major role in biodiversity on the planet. The bridge made it easier for animals and plants to migrate between the two continents. In North America today, the opossum, porcupine and armadillo all track back to ancestors that came across the land bridge from South America. Likewise are bears, cats, dogs, llamas, raccoons and horses made the trek south.
In each show room you will see an epoch from then to know. Even two aquariums which shows the difference in fish and fauna between the Caribbean and Pacific side.
Although the museum is still under construction we were the first tour group that was allowed to enter. All was in raw state but it was really easy to picture the finished museum.
Christmas was very Christmassy. Christmas Eve we enjoyed my Fondue Bourgignonne at Binnies, my guests like it so much they wanted the same for Christmas Day. Carl Smith was so excited to celebrate Christmas with us he arrived a day too early. Of course we never told him that but really enjoyed having him with us. New Years, we had a wonderful time at Jim and Melania's who live in a quite part of the coast line around the corner from Portobelo. As always at her house we had wonderful food, drinks, fun but when Jim and I started singing Karaoke for some reason everybody disappeared upstairs to the pool room, wonder why??!!!! The party came to it's peak at 11 when the power went out region wide and stayed out until 3 am (we were told it happened the previous year as well). That did not stop us from playing pool but I'll tell you the candle light shadow following the balls into the pockets made it a bit more difficult to play. With the power outage the party started dwindling down and we left 10 minutes before midnight, there was no way to tell exactly the time for the new year anyway. Actually it was perfect to leave early, we arrived in Portobelo to watch the wonderful firework as we passed Portobelo in the dark when midnight struck. It was pitch dark other than the headlights on high beam and no other cars within miles on this very windy stretch and had a safe drive back to Puerto Lindo where a bottle of cold champagne was waiting for us. Our first day of 2012 was spent with a champagne brunch at Casita Paraiso and the afternoon playing Ping-Pong and Wii game, wow is that Wii stuff fun.
We are so done eating and drinking, I don't think we ever ate that much over any holiday so we were going on a diet and of course every time we started another party came up then another and then Birthdays and and, but we are on it now.
The rainy season officially is over and the Christmas Winds have
started bringing high winds and high seas to especially this part of the Caribbean. The nice thing is no more rain and adios to mildew growth, for a while.
